Pastry & Baking Arts

How to Cut Cake Like a Pro

abaker — Mon, 20 May 2024 19:51:47 +0000

How to Cut Cake Like a Pro abaker Mon, 05/20/2024 - 15:51 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/cake-cutting-guide-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=2ed1D_Vm May 22, 2024

By Pamela Vachon

Layer cakes are generally celebration cakes, so unless you’re a pastry chef or otherwise work in a bakery, you might not actually be in the habit of cutting cake more than once or twice a year. It follows, then, that without regular practice and consistent technique, you might not always get the best outcome in terms of producing neat, even slices, or the correct number of pieces to feed the crowd at hand.

Despite being the most popular method, cutting cake into wedges by eyeballing the radius of a round cake isn’t necessarily the best way to approach a layer cake situation, especially if you’re dealing with a cake of more than six or eight inches in diameter.

With wedding and graduation season on the horizon, ICE Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructor Kathryn Gordon takes us through some best cake-cutting practices so you can cut celebration-worthy slices with confidence, no matter the size or style of cake.

“You need to make sure, whether it’s a smaller, party-sized serving or a bigger, dessert-sized serving, that there are enough slices to go around,” Chef Kathryn says.

Chef Kathryn's advice applies for casual cakes made at home or cakes made for a professional catering job. A pastry chef’s goal is also to produce slices that retain their textural integrity and look neat and presentable, but you don’t need to be a professional pastry chef to adopt the same mindset for cutting cake.

Related: All ŷ��Ƭ Cake Math

The size or shape of the slices might depend on the size or style of the cake.

“I also consider to some extent how rich a cake is,” Chef Kathryn says. “For example, generally people will eat a smaller slice of a ganache, praline fudge and nut cake than a strawberry and cream sponge.”

No matter the style, though, having the right tool and the right approach to cutting are both key to the optimal outcome of ample, beautiful cake slices.

The Right Tool for the Job

As with any culinary undertaking, using the appropriate tool for the job at hand is an important habit for both professionals and amateurs. While layer cakes are generally soft in texture, that doesn’t mean you should disrespect them with a dull knife, or with the side of a wedge-shaped pie server.

A cake deserves a sharp chef’s knife just as much as would a tender, perfectly cooked cut of meat.

“The best knife is generally a hot, dry chef's knife,” says Chef Kathryn. “Boil water, and for each slice — yes, each slice — dip the knife in the water and dry it on a clean towel. This will help keep all the carefully created layers of cake and filling separate and clean, and not smeared together.”

The blade should be pointed away from you and not toward your hand when drying the knife between slices.

Consult a Cake-Cutting Guide

Most of us have experience with small round cakes cut into wedges, but this is rarely how professional pastry chefs or bakers approach layer cake, unless the cake is very small to begin with. You can find a variety of helpful cake-cutting guides online that demonstrate how to cut slices from a round cake in a grid fashion, allowing for many more slices than you could get by cutting wedges. Rectangular slices also are generally neater and easier to cut, especially if a cake has multiple layers, than the wedge approach.

Consider that most standard round cake pans are eight or nine inches in diameter. According to the grid method, anything larger than a six-inch cake should be cut into thin rectangles, not wedges. The larger a cake gets, the harder it is to estimate the exact center of the cake and the more likely you’ll end up with uneven and unruly slices by trying to cut wedges. Rather than trying to eyeball the center point of the cake and cut radiuses, with the grid method you need only estimate about an inch or two of cake at a time, working from the edge of the cake.

With a small eight- or nine-inch cake, “many people slice through the center to halve the cake, and then place that cake on a cutting board to cut rectangular slices as desired,” Chef Kathryn says.

With this grid-like approach, it’s possible to get dozens of neat, equal slices, even from a relatively small cake.

Consider Dowels and Concentric Circles

Chef Kathryn also points out that many multi-tiered cakes rely on dowels in the center to maintain a cake’s structural integrity, and need to be considered when it comes to cutting.

“If a large celebration-style cake has multiple tiers, it is often doweled,” she says. “This typically means the cake is baked and sized up, to account for the center ring to never be cut or served, given the risk of eating part of a non-edible dowel. Slices are cut only out of the outer perimeter of the cake in this instance,” which may be either rectangular in fashion, or in small wedges.

With larger round cakes, you can use a smaller cake pan to trace and cut concentric circles to create multiple rings from which to cut uniform slices.

Cake Pastry Arts

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All ŷ��Ƭ Cake Math

abaker — Tue, 16 Apr 2024 16:40:18 +0000

All ŷ��Ƭ Cake Math abaker Tue, 04/16/2024 - 12:40 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/wedding-cake-math-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=OhUwg2pY It’s time to reacquaint yourself with the other type of pie April 19, 2024

By Cory Sale

Cory Sale is the Senior Public Relations Manager at ICE and an alumna (Culinary Arts '22). She enjoys writing about seasonal produce almost as much as visiting NYC’s greenmarkets, where she finds new flavors to add to ice cream. When she’s not cooking (or eating), you can find her on the frisbee field chasing down a piece of plastic.

I’m getting married this summer, and maybe I’m crazy, but I’d like to bake my own wedding cake. The pastry module in the Culinary Arts program was one of my favorites when I was a student, and the process of testing out different flavors and fillings was a delicious endeavor.

Looking through recipes like Chef Penny Stankiewicz’s Ultimate Birthday Cake or her Peanut Butter & Jelly Cake, I uncovered a flaw in my plan. I don’t want to bake that much cake. It would be a lot of work to make multi-layered cakes just to get a taste, and the ingredient costs — and the inches to my waistline — would indeed add up.

A six-inch round pan is the smallest I have, but many recipes call for an eight-inch or 10-inch round pan, a 9x13-inch rectangular pan and even half-sheet pans. For help, I turned to Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructor Ravindra Verma to teach me how to modify a recipe when using a different pan than the recipe calls for. He also shared some pointers to make the conversion process easier and ensure better baking.

Formula for Calculating Baking Pan Volume

This post is about cake math after all, and here's where pi — the other pie — comes in. To adjust a recipe for your desired yield, Chef Ravi explains the first step is to calculate the volumes of the two pans — the size the recipe calls for and the one you want to use. Then, divide them to get the factor, which is what will be multiplied with each ingredient to determine the adjusted quantities you’ll need to use.

Chef Ravi’s formulas, along with examples of how to use them, are as follows:

Volume of a round pan = π [x r(radius of pan)] ^2 x h (height of pan)
Volume of a square or rectangular pan= length x width x height of pan
Factor= (volume you want)/(volume of recipe)

Example 1: Converting More Cake to Less Cake

For example, Chef Penny’s Ultimate Birthday Cake uses four eight-inch round pans that are three inches tall, but I want to make one six-inch round cake that’s two inches in height. First, I calculate the total volume for what Chef Penny’s recipe calls for and the pan size for what I want to make:

Volume of Chef Penny's recipe= π x 4^2 x 3 x 4 (four pans) = 602.88 cubic inches
Volume of 6" pan = π x 3^2 x 2 = 56.52 cubic inches

I divide those two numbers to calculate the factor:

Factor= [56.52 (volume of cake I want)] / [602.88 (volume of Chef Penny's recipe)] = 0.09

And then multiply the recipe’s ingredients by the factor. Chef Penny’s recipe calls for 540 grams of white sugar, so to calculate the adjusted quantity I need:

540g x 0.09 = 48.6g white sugar

Example 2: Converting Round Cakes into a Sheet Cake

Say a vanilla cake recipe yields two 12-inch round cakes (pans are two inches tall), but you want one half-sheet cake. First, calculate the volume of the pans:

Volume of half sheet pan = 13 x 18 x 1 = 234 cubic inches
Recipe yields = π x 6^2 x 2 x 2 = 452.16 cubic inches

Divide the two numbers to calculate the factor:

Factor= [234 (the volume of cake I want)] / [452.16 (volume of recipe)] = 0.51

Multiply each ingredient in the recipe by 0.51 to get enough batter for a half-sheet cake:

200g x 0.51 = 102g white sugar

Use these same calculations to scale recipes up and down or to convert between circle and rectangular pan shapes.

Measure by Weight and Go Metric

For greater accuracy, Chef Ravi highly recommends measuring ingredients by weight instead of volume. If you don’t have a kitchen scale, here’s more on why it’s necessary according to ICE Pastry & Baking chefs.

And, while you’re ditching the measuring cups and spoons, Chef Ravi underscored the benefits of using the metric system instead of the imperial system. He gives an example: imagine trying to divide a third of a cup of oil by four or five, versus dividing 1,000 grams by the same number. If your recipe uses imperial measurements, consider converting it to metric. Weighing ingredients and using the metric system leave less room for error and will make conversions easier.

Adjusting Bake Time

When the ingredient quantities have been adjusted, the batter’s made and in the pans, all that’s left to do is bake. While bake time depends on a number of factors including the kind of cake and oven type, Chef Ravi noted that taller cakes take longer to bake than shallow cakes.

So, if the recipe made a half-sheet cake but you’ve switched it up to yield a 6x3-inch cake, you’ll need to increase the bake time and may need to reduce the oven’s temperature. He also mentioned that cake batter with a higher liquid content, like carrot cake or red velvet cake, takes longer to bake than cakes with less liquid, such as a pound cake.

One last slice of wisdom from Chef Ravi: Keep in mind that baking is a science where accuracy plays a big role in a recipe’s outcome. So do your math, then eat your cake!

Related: How to Start a Home Bakery

Cake Pastry Arts

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An Introductory Guide to Vanilla

abaker — Tue, 12 Mar 2024 19:00:00 +0000

An Introductory Guide to Vanilla abaker Tue, 03/12/2024 - 15:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/vanilla-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=dyoQ6yfH A supporting cast member that isn’t always meant to be in the spotlight March 12, 2024

By Cory Sale

When we think of vanilla, pastry applications that have vanilla as the primary flavor, like ice cream, may come to mind first. However, vanilla is more often used because it’s a flavor enhancer. It complements and mellows, balancing sharper notes and contributing a sweet and floral flavor, which is why it appears as an ingredient in most baked goods.

Think of vanilla like any other spice in your cabinet — it can be added to cocktails, barbecue rubs, chili and more. Plus, the many forms of vanilla available at the grocery store offer many different and fun ways to experiment with it.

Here’s everything you need to know about this ingredient from the Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructors at ICE.

What is vanilla? Where is it grown?

Vanilla beans are the string-bean-shaped fruit of the vanilla orchid, which is grown in tropical regions with lots of sunlight, high humidity and high temperatures. It takes about a year for the fruit to grow, and after the bean is picked, it is cured then dried and fermented, changing in color from green to dark brown.

According to ICE Chef-Instructor Trung Vu, Madagascan vanilla beans are the most widely available, and they bring the classic vanilla flavor we’re familiar with (sweet notes), whereas Tahitian beans offer more floral notes.

All forms of vanilla are expensive because the areas where the orchid grows are prone to monsoons and tropical storms which decrease supply, plus it’s a very labor-intensive crop.

What are the different types of vanilla?

Whole vanilla beans

Look for beans that are oily, plump and moist, and not dried out or brittle. To use, slice the pod in half lengthwise and use the back of a paring knife to scrape down the length of the bean to extract the seeds. Add the seeds to any recipe, but don’t discard the pod — steep it in liquid to add flavor (it's great to use in an ice cream base) or use it to create other vanilla products at home, which you’ll find out more about below. If you get a firmer bean, soak it in warm or room-temperature liquid to help it loosen up.

Vanilla extract

Ever had a taste of vanilla extract and been surprised by its harsh flavor? That’s because this ingredient is made by macerating vanilla beans in a mixture of alcohol and water until the flavor and color of the bean have been extracted. This type of vanilla is widely available and more affordable than whole beans. When purchasing, make sure to read the product label, as there are two types of extract: pure vanilla extract and imitation extract.

Though imitation may be cheaper, ICE Chef-Instructor Stephen Chavez always recommends using pure vanilla.

“The pure flavor is much more floral and deep than any inexpensive extract,” he says.

Vanilla paste

Made from ground vanilla beans, vanilla paste may also contain sugar or thickeners. Both extract and paste will add color, but unlike the extract, the paste has speckles from the seeds. Director of Pastry Research & Development Jürgen David prefers to use this type of vanilla for its convenience and deep flavor and suggests using one tablespoon of paste per bean when substituting.

Vanilla powder

Pure vanilla powder is made from dried, ground vanilla. Many powders available are actually vanilla sugar and their white color is a giveaway, as pure powder has a darker shade. This form of vanilla can be useful when you want a dry application of the flavor, like sprinkling it with sugar onto a doughnut. When substituting, keep in mind that vanilla powder is more intense than vanilla extract, so start with about half the volume of powder.

Which type of vanilla should I use when?

ICE Chef-Instructor Sandra Palmer advises students to use vanilla beans, powder and paste only when a customer will be able to see it, like in vanilla bean marshmallows or vanilla ice cream. Seeing the flecks of vanilla seeds enables them to anticipate the flavor and understand the effort and expense involved in making it. On the other hand, if you’re making a chocolate cake, she recommends using vanilla extract in order to maximize value.

How to get the most out of vanilla

Don’t toss vanilla beans after scraping the seeds out, as there is still a lot of flavor left. Try these two methods at home for spreading this expensive ingredient as far as possible:

Make homemade vanilla extract using leftover vanilla beans.

In an airtight jar, add three to four used beans, water and alcohol using a ratio of 2/3 alcohol to 1/3 water. A neutral spirit is ideal, but you can use rum, vodka, bourbon or any type you’d like. Let the beans steep for a few weeks before using. Alternatively, if you don’t have enough beans to start from scratch, Chef Stephen suggests adding what you have to a bottle of vanilla extract to amplify its flavor. Continue adding used beans and alcohol and you’ll end up with a much better flavored product.

Don’t need more vanilla extract? Try vanilla sugar instead.

ICE Chef-Instructor Kierin Baldwin suggests using running water to clean a leftover pod, then letting it dry out for a few days. Once it is no longer pliable, she uses a food processor to grind the pod with granulated sugar, then sifts it through a fine sieve to remove any large leftover chunks of the bean — you can process these chunks with more sugar to ensure the use of the whole pod. The sugar will absorb the scent and flavor of the vanilla; substitute it for granulated sugar in any recipe for great vanilla flavor.

Baking Arts Pastry Arts Ingredient Exploration

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Choosing the Best Flour for Bread Baking: A Comprehensive Guide

abaker — Fri, 01 Mar 2024 23:37:34 +0000

Choosing the Best Flour for Bread Baking: A Comprehensive Guide abaker Fri, 03/01/2024 - 18:37 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/bread-flours-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=cDjefU11 March 4, 2024

By Pamela Vachon

You don’t need to be a professional baker or even a culinary student to know that the dusty old bag of flour lurking in the back of your pantry might not be the best option when you’re in the mood to whip up a fresh, crusty loaf of bread.

Even in a conventional grocery store, you have many options to choose from when it comes to different flours: those that are indicated for different purposes, white and whole wheat, and even those made with alternative grains.

So which is or are the best option(s) when it comes to making bread? Is bread flour the only way to go?

In order to choose the best flour (or flours) specifically for bread-baking, it’s important to understand the basic science at the heart of the process that produces a successful, crusty loaf.

“In order to produce a great loaf of bread, one needs to have the proper structure that comes from the high quantity of protein that is found in what we consider bread flour or high-gluten flour,” says Stephen Chavez, Chef-Instructor at ICE LA.

“The gluten structure [in your bread dough] captures the carbon dioxide, part of the fermentation process that gives the bread rise,” says Jürgen David, ICE's Director of Pastry Research and Development.

The protein content of the flour that you choose, then, as well as the kneading process you apply to the dough, determines the gluten development and ultimately governs the outcome of your loaf. So in short, it matters greatly what flour you choose for bread baking.

What Differentiates Bread Flour from Other Types of Flour?

The difference between bread flour and other types of flour “comes down to the protein content of the flour,” says Chef Jürgen.

Most crusty bread recipes require flour with a high protein content.

“For recipes like cookie dough or cake batters, the protein content should be low so the texture remains tender,” he says.

The protein content varies considerably with different types of flour. Chef Jürgen breaks down the different percentages of protein found in different, commercially available wheat flours.

“Generally, bread flour contains about 15% protein, and all-purpose flour has between 10.5% and 11.5% protein, sometimes up to 13%,” he says. “Pastry flour has between 8.5% to 9.5% protein, and cake flour has only 7%.”

Chef Stephen adds: “You can also describe flours by their content of protein versus the content of starch contained in the flour. Protein is needed for structure. Starch is needed for tender texture through gelatinization,” he says. “Comparing the four most common types of commercial flour, bread flour is high in protein and low in starch. All-purpose flour contains close to equal amounts of protein and starch. Pastry flour has medium-high protein and high starch, and cake flour is low in protein, high in starch.”

Can You Use All-Purpose Flour for Bread Baking?

True to its name, all-purpose flour was developed to be a one-size-fits-all flour to be used in a number of ways.

“All-purpose flour was designed for home cooks to be able to use one flour in order to make a loaf of bread, or a cake or cookies,” Chef Stephen says. “However, as professionals, we can use specialized flours for specific applications that will work better than using a generic all-purpose flour.”

Second to bread flour, all-purpose flour does have the next highest amount of protein available, however. While bread flour is the best option, it can sometimes be used if you don’t have bread flour.

“Check the protein content,” advises Chef Jürgen, since it can vary from brand to brand, and an all-purpose flour that contains protein on the higher end of the range, 12 to 13 percent, will produce a better outcome.

AP flour can also be successful in certain types of recipes.

“AP flour can be used in the making of rich or enriched breads such as soft rolls, or brioche,” says Chef Stephen, which are meant to be softer in nature, rather than crusty.

Enriched breads typically include added fat in the dough in the form of butter, milk, oil, etc.

“AP flour does not work well for lean doughs such as those used for baguettes or other artisan breads,” he says.

Different Types of Flours for Different Types of Bread

It’s also important to consider that different types of bread can also call for different types of flour.

“Sometimes we mix types of flour in one recipe to balance the protein content,” says Chef Jürgen.

Not all bread recipes have the same intended outcome as well.

“Think of pizza dough where you need a very high percentage of gluten protein in order to take a small piece of dough and stretch it out to a large pizza size,” says Chef Stephen. “The dough will need to be soft but have a crispy finish, as opposed to a rich dough such as Hawaiian rolls which are very soft, or biscuits which should end up tender and flaky,” he says. “Each example should use a different type of flour in order to get the optimal results.”

Always try to utilize the correct flour that’s called for in whatever recipe you’re making.

What ŷ��Ƭ Whole Wheat Flour?

Whole wheat flour, which is different from conventional flour which is also made from wheat, also has different considerations than bread flour when it comes to bread baking.

“Whole wheat flour contains both the bran and germ, which are removed by sifting for flour that is not whole wheat,” says Chef Jürgen. “The endosperm is the starch, and main part of the wheat kernel which is used in most flour.”

Whole wheat breads also typically contain at least some white flour in addition to whole wheat.

“Whole wheat flour can be incorporated into most breads effectively,” says Chef Stephen, which also brings additional nutrient value to breads. “However, it is best used in percentages below 70%,” he says. “Any amount of whole wheat above that would require a re-formulation of the recipe that would necessitate a higher percentage of water, or else your bread will turn out very heavy and dense. 100% whole wheat bread usually incorporates well over 100% water in order to come out light and fluffy.”

Are Alternative Flours Good For Bread Baking?

Alternative flours such as spelt, rye, and others can also be used for bread baking.

“They are delicious, nutrient rich and add a different flavor profile and texture,” says Chef Jürgen, but also come with additional considerations.

“Flour can be made from any grain, nut, seed, or tuber if it is ground enough until a powdery substance forms,” says Chef Stephen, “however, wheat flour must be used to make the type of bread found in Western civilization. Wheat flour is unique in that it is the only flour that has a large amount of gluten which is important for structure and texture in baking bread.”

Spelt is a form of wheat flour, and rye is a grain flour that also contains protein, but they too must also include white flour for a successful outcome, as they are low in gluten.

“Spelt and rye flours are both wonderful for use in bread, but as with whole wheat flour above, they must be used in moderation,” says Chef Stephen, along with a percentage of white flour.

Bread Bread Baking Baking Arts Flour Ingredient Exploration

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Ghoul Log Halloween Roulade Cake

ajohnson — Fri, 27 Oct 2023 18:05:43 +0000

Ghoul Log Halloween Roulade Cake ajohnson Fri, 10/27/2023 - 14:05 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Halloween%20cake%20frosting%20toppers%20HEADER.JPG.webp?itok=HxjAHmE0 Halloween people need an iconic seasonal cake, too. October 30, 2023

By Anna Johnson

Yule logs are out. Ghoul logs are in.

The most festive cake of the spooky season has arrived: Meet the GHOUL log, an eerie roulade cake decked out for Halloween.

A roulade cake, also known as a Swiss roll or a rolled cake, is typically the style of cake used in a yule log cake. The cake, often a sponge cake, is rolled up with buttercream or whipped cream and then frosted and decorated on the outside.

ICE Los Angeles Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructors Missy Smith-Chapman and Carrie Smith created the ghoul log for Halloween lovers everywhere.

The chefs came up with the idea while brainstorming unique Halloween treats to please a crowd. They made two differently colored versions of the same cake and buttercream base — one with white cake and buttercream and the other with orange cake and purple buttercream — to test out different decor schemes.

Pro-tip from the ICE chefs: After you add initial food dye to a buttercream, to intensify the color more, scoop about one-quarter of the total amount of the buttercream into a microwave-safe bowl, microwave it until just melted and then mix it back into the rest of the buttercream. The color will deepen without having to add even more dye to your mix.

One of the most important steps when making a roulade cake is the rolling. Some of the chefs' top tips for a successful roll include:

Use a flexible cake base, like a sponge cake
Rolling while the cake is still warm

Roulade cakes, though often decorated with meringue mushrooms or sugared cranberries around the holiday season, are versatile for any occasion. Plus, they're super fun to decorate with buttercream pumpkins, ghosts and eyeball sprinkles.

This year, try your hand at making a ghoul log. After all, why pass out Halloween candy when you can hand each precocious trick-or-treater a thick slice of rolled cake and send them on their way? Or just make it and use it as a centerpiece at your Halloween party.

Whichever you choose, here's how to make it at home.

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Roulade Cake

Makes 1 cake

6 eggs, yolks and whites separated
6 ounces sugar
1 ounce honey
6 ounces cake flour, sifted
4 cups Swiss meringue buttercream
*Optional* Food color of choice

Preheat conventional oven to 350°F.
Whisk egg yolks, 3 ounces of sugar and the honey to a ribbon stage.
In a separate bowl, whip egg whites and 3 ounces of sugar to a medium-peak meringue.
Fold the meringue into the ribboned yolk mixture.
Fold in the sifted cake flour.
Spread the batter into a sprayed, paper-lined 1/2-inch sheet tray.
Bake until the cake springs back to the touch.
Once the cake is out of the oven, allow to cool.
Spread about half of the buttercream on one side and then carefully and evenly roll up the cake.
Immediately put the rolled cake in the freezer and allow it to firm up for about 20 to 30 minutes.
Once the cake has firmed up, ice with the rest of the buttercream. Decorate with additional buttercream designs and sprinkles.

Cake Halloween Pastry Arts Baking Arts Recipe

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Tips from Vegan Chefs for Grilling Meat Alternatives

abaker — Wed, 02 Aug 2023 13:00:00 +0000

Tips from Vegan Chefs for Grilling Meat Alternatives abaker Wed, 08/02/2023 - 09:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/NGI-Vegan-Burgers-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=r5UOoMtW You don’t have to commit to a fully vegan BBQ to put these plant-based grilling tips to work. August 2, 2023

By Pamela Vachon

Chances are you’ll put something plant-based on the grill this summer, regardless of whether you eat vegan, vegetarian or run-of-the-mill omnivore, and whether you’ve dabbled in the Impossible and Beyond, or even if you just threw on some ears of corn on the grates to accompany your conventional burgers or steaks.

Vegetables and alternative proteins can absolutely shine on the grill, but they don’t behave the same way meat does, and deserve special treatment to maximize their flavor and texture. I consulted two vegan chefs featured in the mini-documentary “A Better Plant-Based Future,” Lemmel Durrah, who brings a plant-based soul food approach with his Compton Vegan, and Kale Walch, who operates Minneapolis’s The Herbivorous Butcher, along with his sister Aubry. Between them, they offered these six tips for upping your vegetable and meat-alternative grilling game.

Well Done Isn’t Necessarily Well Done

When it comes to meat alternatives like Impossible or Beyond burgers, or even homemade veggie patties designed to be eaten between the buns, the number one mistake people make is simply treating them like they are beef burgers. Texture and flavor are still the goals, but these can often be achieved with less time and heat.

“I think people cook plant-based foods for too long on the grill,” says Durrah. “[They] don’t have to be on the grill as long as meat.”

“It's a common mistake to cook it like animal meat,” concurs Walch. “You assume you have to heat it in order to kill bacteria, but you can eat vegan meat right out of the package. I cook it low and slow or very fast on high heat just for the sear flavor.” For lower and slower grill cooking, use the upper grate that’s further from the heat source.

Take Risks with Marinades

Marinades are typically made with a combination of liquids like soy sauce, juice or oil, and seasonings such as aromatics, herbs and spices. Marinades are a great way to infuse your foods with flavor by seasoning them and/or tenderizing them ahead of time before they ever hit the grill.

Related Reading: The Key Component to Any Marinade

Grilled veggies take on a lot of flavor from the grilling treatment alone, but this doesn’t mean they can’t also benefit from additional flavoring. Walch is adamant that such marinades aren’t only useful for meats, and can help get the most out of vegetables: “I'm of the opinion that people don't take enough risks with marinade,” he says. “They can get stuck doing the same thing, so branching out and trying a new sauce for vegetables can elevate the grilling experience.”

Related Recipe: Mushroom Tacos with Balsamic Lime Marinade

Same goes for alternative proteins such as tempeh, tofu or seitan. When treated accordingly these can achieve texture and flavor that can convert even your most carnivorous friends: “I've also been grilling tofu cutlets that have been marinated for a long time after pressing them,” says Walch. “They're like a sponge and retain the flavor of the marinade really well, and the char from the grill accentuates that.”

Try Dry Rubs Also

Dry rubs aren’t just for chicken and ribs either. A concentrated mix of spices, salt, sugar and zest can bring big barbecue energy to plants and plant proteins alike, and can create the kind of crust or bark that is associated with the best executed barbecue.

Related Reading: How to Amplify the Flavor of Plants

There are endless variations on dry rubs and Walch encourages experimentation, but hints that his signature dry rub has two necessary ingredients: “It always has brown sugar and orange zest. From there, you can do just about anything, but that's a good base. It gives it a fresh citrus kick and some sweetness.” Smoked paprika can also help tease out additional smokiness from the grill proceedings, or even give a grilled vibe if your barbecue gets rained out.

Oil the Grates

If you are working with a dry rub over a marinade, however, it’s important to recognize a procedural point of order. “When it comes to grilling vegetables make sure you oil the grates prior to cooking your vegetables or they’ll stick to the grill,” says Durrah.

Vegetables don’t have the natural fat content of certain cuts of meat, so you have to give them a helping hand in that department. And the slightly sticky texture of plant-based meat alternatives, conventional or homemade, makes them susceptible to sticking also.

Whether you are starting with a cold or hot grill, the best practice for greasing your grates is to use paper towel dipped in a high-heat, neutral oil and apply using tongs.

Think Inside the (Farm Share) Box

There are usual suspects when it comes to grilled vegetables, and it doesn’t take a vegetarian sorcerer to get those right. “Corn on the cob and portobello mushrooms are perfect for grilling,” says Durrah. But he also recommends eggplant, which can even be done whole to develop complex flavor and texture perfect for turning into a smoky dip or spread.

“People often make the mistake of grilling asparagus. It's not very good...I'm just kidding,” says Walch. Vegetarians and carnivores alike agree, grilled asparagus is all that.

Take that asparagus confidence into just about any vegetable. Even whole heads of sturdy lettuces like romaine can be grilled for a warm, smoky salad. Basically if it’s in the farm share box, it’s fair game for the grilling treatment. See what you can get into with things like kohlrabi, beets and artichokes.

Don’t Forget the Fruit

According to both vegan chefs, fruit belongs on the grill as much as its other plant-based counterparts, and can offer grilled character to many components to a meal.

“The best thing I can think of that can get overlooked for grilling is fruit,” says Walch. “Grilled peaches are the epitome of summer food, but you can play around with all sorts of [others].”

Take the fruits of your grill and make sauces, salsas, side dishes or to really put a (grilled) cherry on top of your summer plant grilling game, dessert.

Related Reading: 7 Surprising Ingredients You Can Grill

Vegan Vegetables Vegetarian Grilling

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Chef Penny's Pistachio and Jelly Doughnuts

crose — Thu, 08 Jun 2023 13:00:00 +0000

Chef Penny's Pistachio and Jelly Doughnuts crose Thu, 06/08/2023 - 09:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/pistachio-jelly-doughnut-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=CpN29WyQ She uses flavors of Sicily as inspiration. June 8, 2023

By Carly Rose — Social Media Assistant

In an episode of Epicurious' Pro Chef vs. Home Cook, Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructor Penny Stankiewicz shares her recipe for Sicilian pistachio and calamansi jelly doughnuts.

Sicilian pistachio and calamansi jelly doughnuts — a mouthful to say, but delicious to eat. Chef Penny's recipe combines rich caramel and the bright citrus flavor of calamansi to create an indulgent desert with a light finish.

Starting with a classic brioche dough, these doughnuts call for four individually prepped additions: Sicilian pistachio pastry cream, caramelized pistachio, calamansi jelly and calamansi caramel glaze. Plan to make this dish over the span of two days, or with enough time to let the dough chill before adding fillings and toppings.

Watch the video below to see the techniques used to make this dish, and check out the recipe for detailed ingredients and baking instructions.

Study Pastry & Baking with Chef Penny at ICE New York.

Chef Penny's Sicilian Pistachio and Calamansi Jelly Doughnuts

Yields approx. 1 dozen doughnuts

Brioche

Ingredients

Sponge

9 grams instant yeast
120 grams whole milk
50 grams sugar
100 grams all-purpose flour

Dough

100 grams double flour
215 grams all-purpose flour
5 grams salt
100 grams whole egg
20 grams egg yolk
175 gram softened butter
1 lemon, zested
Peanut oil for frying

Directions

Warm milk slightly to take off the chill. Do not overheat or it will harm the yeast. Add yeast, sugar and flour and mix to a paste. Let this mixture sit at room temperature for 30 to 60 minutes.
Add the sponge to the bowl of a stand mixer. Add whole eggs and yolk and mix to combine. Add flour and salt, and mix with the dough hook on speed 2. Allow the mixture to knead to develop the gluten, about 8-10 minutes.
With the machine still running, start to add the softened butter a tablespoon at a time, until all of it is completely incorporated. Continue mixing until there are no more traces of butter.
Place dough in a bowl more than twice its size that has been coated in a thin layer of oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough sit at room temperature for 90 minutes. If it’s cold, it may need more time. When the dough has doubled in size, remove the dough from the bowl and place it on the counter top. When it’s about double in size, gently deflate it, and place it in the refrigerator overnight.
The next day, place chilled dough onto the counter with a sprinkling of bench flour. Roll it to about 1/2 inch thick. Use a 2 1/2 inch round cutter to cut out doughnuts. Place on a parchment-lined sheet that has been sprinkled with flour, and it allow to proof at room temperature for 60-90 minutes or until doubled in size. It is ready when you gently press the dough with a finger and the indent remains.
Set up a frying station with either a Dutch oven or deep fryer and sheet pan with rack on it or a plate lined with paper towels. Heat peanut oil to 350 F. Gently place the doughnuts into the hot oil, making sure not to overcrowd the pan. Fry, turning them, until golden brown on both sides, about 2-3 minutes per side. Rely more on your eyes for timing. Remove and place on the rack or towel-lined plate to cool.

Sicilian Pistachio Pastry Cream

Ingredients

200 grams Sicilian pistachios
2 tsp pistachio oil
465 grams whole milk
120 grams granulated sugar
58 grams corn starch
1 egg
4 egg yolks
60 grams unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean

Directions

Toast the pistachios in a 325 F oven until lightly golden.
Remove and place in a blender or food processor. While still warm, puree pistachios adding oil as needed to create a smooth paste.
Place the scraped vanilla bean, half the milk and half the sugar into a medium sauce pan, and bring to a boil.
In bowl, combine the rest of the milk, sugar, whole egg, yolks and cornstarch. Whisk it all to combine. Temper the eggs into the hot milk mixture. Place back in the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a whisk. When it’s thickened, stop to make sure there is at least one lava-like bubble. Then cook for one more minute, stirring constantly.
Take off heat and stir in the butter. Transfer to a sheet tray in a thin layer and cover with plastic wrap, which should touch the surface. Place in the refrigerator to cool.
Add 150 grams pistachio paste to cooled pastry cream. Transfer to a pastry bag with a dough filling tip.

Caramelized Pistachio

Ingredients

100 grams Sicilian pistachios
150 grams granulated sugar
2 grams lemon juice

Directions

Make a dry caramel with the sugar by heating a small sauce pan and adding the sugar and lemon juice. Stir constantly until it has melted and turned golden brown.
Stir in the pistachios and pour out onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Allow to cool.
Break into large shards with the end of a rolling pin and place into a food processor. Pulse carefully to process into crumbs.

Calamansi Jelly

Ingredients

4 grams powdered gelatin
180 grams calamansi puree
10 grams sugar
2 vanilla bean scraped

Directions

Add sugar to puree. Sprinkle gelatin over the top and allow it to bloom for about 5 minutes.
Microwave in short bursts to melt the gelatin. Do not boil.
Add vanilla bean seeds.
Place in the refrigerator to set.
When set, use an immersion blender to soften texture to be able to pipe.

Calamansi Caramel Glaze

300 grams granulated sugar
3 grams lemon juice
300 grams calamansi puree
2 vanilla bean, split

Make a dry caramel with the sugar and lemon juice.
Add the calamansi puree and vanilla bean and cook to 265 F. Keep warm to dip doughnuts.

To Assemble

Place the jelly in a small piping bag. Place pastry cream in a piping bag, fitted with a filling tip. Make sure glaze is warm.
Fill doughnut with a small amount of the jelly, trying to get it dispersed evenly.
Fill doughnut with pastry cream, waiting to feel the resistance. When a small amount comes out, you know it's full.
Dip doughnut in warm glaze and top with pistachio caramel crumbs.

More donut goodness: Lemon Meringue Pie Doughnut Recipe

Recipe Desserts Baking Arts Pastry Arts Epicurious

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How to Approach a Composed Cheese Course

aday — Thu, 01 Jun 2023 13:00:00 +0000

How to Approach a Composed Cheese Course aday Thu, 06/01/2023 - 09:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/composed%20cheese%20header.jpg.webp?itok=DVRLHDpY Award-winning pastry chef and ICE creative director Michael Laiskonis describes his creative process for designing a Petit Basque dish. June 1, 2023

By Michael Laiskonis — Creative Director

I’ll admit that even as a pastry chef, sometimes the last thing I’m looking for in a “last course” is something sweet. While I think it’s important to always save room for dessert, I’m often swayed by the alternative of a composed cheese course. At the very least, I may even squeeze the cheese in before dessert!

From a creative perspective, a composed cheese plate allows an exciting opportunity to straddle the line that separates sweet from savory. The cheese is the star of the show, of course, but the accompaniments we choose can play an important role as supporting actors. I often try to start with a palette of basic tastes – sweet, salty, bitter, acid – as inspiration and follow that with spice or heat; the balance of these elements will, of course, be determined by the flavors offered by the cheese.

To demonstrate this approach, we could start with a favorite of mine, Petit Basque. Produced in the French Pyrenees, it’s a semi-firm sheep’s milk cheese that is nutty, earthy and occasionally accompanied by just a hint of funkiness. For one, it’s formed into diminutive cylinders and is firm enough to cut into clean slices, which lends itself well to a plated composition. As I start to explore the range of supporting flavors at my disposal, I really need to look no further than the region the cheese hails from – the vibrant Basque country that incorporates parts of France and Spain.

I love the notion that what grows together, goes together, so when I think of the south of France and northern Spain, I’m immediately drawn to flavors like fig and almond. The richness of the Petit Basque could stand up to a hint of spice, so a smoky pimenton is an obvious choice. For some complex acidity, I love the classic gastrique – essentially a caramel made with vinegar – and a bright peach vinegar would add even more interesting fruit notes. Confit lemon peel adds a final sweet-bitter-acid touch that helps tie all the components together.

As soon as the flavors begin to come into focus, I’m already thinking of what form they might take. While some cheeses are special enough on their own to not require much fussy treatment, our milky Petit Basque begs for a bit more compositional flair. The fig is cooked down into a pate de fruit and sliced in a long, thin base. Salty Marcona almonds are presented both unadorned and fashioned into a crunchy shard of praline. A line of the smoked paprika allows the guest to play with different heat levels in each bite. And after a few drops of the sweet-sour peach gastrique, a peppery nasturtium leaf becomes the final garnish.

A composed cheese plate not only enhances subtle nuances of its noble subject but also affords a chance to flex our culinary muscles to elevate such pairings and to customize a range of complementary flavors and textures.

Petit Basque: Fig, Almond, Peach, Pimenton

For the Petit Basque:

Fig Pâte de Fruit (recipe below)
Marcona Almond Praline (recipe below)
Peach Vinegar Gastrique (recipe below)
Confit Lemon Peel
Spanish Pimenton
Marcona Almonds, whole
Nasturtium Leaf

For the fig pâte de fruit:

200 grams fig purée
50 grams apricot purée
30 grams sucrose (1)
4 grams yellow pectin
210 grams sucrose (2)
40 grams glucose syrup
3.5 grams citric acid

For the Marcona almond praline:

56 grams unsalted butter
85 grams sucrose
12 grams glucose syrup
12 grams water
40 grams Marcona almond (roasted and salted), coarsely ground

For the peach vinegar gastrique:

125 grams sucrose
75 grams water
30 grams peach vinegar

For the fig pâte de fruit:

In a heavy saucepan, combine purées and heat to 40 C/104 F.
Combine first measurement of sucrose (1) and pectin and whisk into purées. Bring to a boil, stirring continuously.
Add remaining sucrose (2) and glucose. Cook to 106 C/223 F. Remove from heat and stir in citric acid.
Pour into a plastic-lined 12-centimeter square frame and allow to set.

For the Marcona almond praline:

Melt the butter in a small heavy saucepan. Remove from heat and stir in sucrose, glucose syrup and water. Cook, stirring occasionally until the mixture reaches 150 C/300 F.
Remove from heat, stir in almonds and pour out on buttered parchment-lined half-sheet pan or marble to cool and harden.

For the peach vinegar gastrique:

Combine sucrose and water to moisten in a small saucepan. Cook to a very light caramel color.
Remove from heat and slowly add vinegar. Return to heat and cook to dissolve any hardened bits of sugar. Continue to cook to 105 C/221 F. Allow to cool.

Train with award-winning pastry chefs in ICE's Pastry & Baking Arts program.

Cheese & Dairy Pastry Arts Chefs Recipe

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Buttery, Flaky, Irresistible: Viennoiserie

ajohnson — Wed, 22 Mar 2023 18:52:05 +0000

Buttery, Flaky, Irresistible: Viennoiserie ajohnson Wed, 03/22/2023 - 14:52 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Red%20striped%20croissant%20header.JPG.webp?itok=40Rp0GhT ICE chefs demonstrate how to laminate dough for the perfect croissants, Danishes and puff pastries March 22, 2023

By Sam Warford

Do you love a flaky, delicate croissant? Or a sticky, sweet Danish? Meet your favorite pastry category: viennoiserie.

Today, Pastry & Baking Arts students at ICE have the opportunity to learn and adopt the traditional techniques of viennoiserie, which go back almost a millennium to its origins in Vienna.

The most recent viennoiserie day at ICE LA was led by Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructors Carrie Smith and Jürgen David.

“It’s a beautiful art,” Chef Carrie says.

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Unlike crunchy, heartier yeasted doughs, viennoiserie breads are typically on the sweeter side, with well-known examples including cinnamon rolls and brioche. Viennoiserie relies on a particular process known as lamination, in which dough is either kneaded and pressed into sheets by hand or, for larger-scale productions, with a sheeter machine. The layers of dough are then folded over, separated by a layer of butter in what are known as envelope folds. These folds encase the butter so that it may give rise to the pastries once they are baked.

But first, the sheeted dough is placed in a proofing drawer at just below 90˚F for two hours. This creates a humid environment for the dough to rise while keeping the butter at the proper temperature to prevent it from oozing out the sides or hardening within, preserving the layers.

“It’s a wonderful day for students and for the chefs,” Chef Carrie says. “It’s also a day that requires close attention to structure.”

For instance, a traditional Danish recipe requires more sugar than a croissant, and may even include the traditional Scandinavian spice cardamom. A Danish is also glazed in simple syrup to make it moist and give it a tantalizing shine.

A croissant, on the other hand, is typically crunchier and possesses an airier, honeycomb consistency thanks to the absence of eggs. There are, of course, variations of all these pastries, as Chefs Carrie and Jürgen made a red striped, bi-color croissant with a raspberry filling. The color design denotes the type of filling — for example, a green stripe may indicate a pistachio cream filling.

Read More: A Brief History of the Croissant

Once the pastries are puffy and proofed, into the oven they go.

The pastries always come out of the oven to much fanfare. In addition to being delicious, the students’ hard work on creating the viennoiserie sweets makes them highly Instagrammable.

“The slice when you get to see the honeycomb of layers is everyone’s happy moment,” Chef Carrie says.

Pastries aren’t the only thing that must rise to the occasion, as students are expected to meet the demands of a fast-paced and high-volume production of a professional bakery. Coordination on the line is crucial to get the pastries glazed in butter and drizzled in icing before they are boxed up for distribution.

Flaky, buttery viennoiserie pastries are sure to delight students, chefs and customers around the world. That’s why this lesson, which teaches both technical skills and teamwork, is a crucial part of the ICE curriculum.

Plus: the pastries pair perfectly with a hot cappuccino.

Recipe: Croissant Cinnamon Rolls with Homemade Filling

Pastry Arts Baking Arts Culinary Technique

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Everyone Loves Pizza Day at ICE

ajohnson — Wed, 01 Mar 2023 21:41:06 +0000

Everyone Loves Pizza Day at ICE ajohnson Wed, 03/01/2023 - 16:41 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Pizza%20Day%20header.JPG.webp?itok=pczky071 ICE students make pizza and share their work with everyone on this much-beloved day March 1, 2023

By Sam Warford

Everyone (staff, faculty and students alike) loves pizza day.

Pizza, whether viewed as a refined classic flatbread or vehicle for meat, cheese and sauce, is a cornerstone of the culinary landscape in the United States.

Fittingly, it also serves an important role in the Pastry & Baking Arts curriculum at the ŷ��Ƭ.

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Pizza has been enjoyed in Italy and beyond in different shapes and forms for thousands of years. Nothing brings people together like pizza, and at ICE, students make pizza from scratch in order to learn about the timeless art that goes into this crowd favorite.

The leavened flatbread has been topped with a variety of cheeses, garlic, herbs and dates since the age of antiquity. In ancient Persia, it is even said that these flatbreads were baked atop warriors’ shields between battles.

Surprisingly, tomatoes were not incorporated in the dish until the Spanish brought tomatoes to Italy from the Americas during the 16th Century. The classic Neapolitan pizza was first made with fresh basil, mozzarella and sweet and acidic tomato sauce during the 18th Century for the arrival of the Queen of Italy in Naples. Its creator, Raffaele Esposito, wanted to present a dish that represented the colors of their country — green, white and red.

Related Reading: Homemade Pizza Tricks

Today, this delicious flatbread is being taught and reimagined at ICE Los Angeles. In order to simulate a day in a busy pizzeria or restaurant, students prepare and bake made-to-order pies for the ICE faculty and staff.

Working on the line, students cut and prep ingredients, shape dough, cook pies and then deliver them to the staff. On pizza day, the ovens are occupied for hours as students continually prep and bake — sometimes more than 50 orders per class block. Topping options often include meats such as prosciutto, bacon, pepperoni, and vegetables like jalapeños and bell peppers.

Once service has ended, the students have the opportunity to award themselves with a pie of their very own. They just have to make it first.

Through this process, ICE students are shown that cooperation, cleanliness and organization in the kitchen and a personable customer experience are key to the success of any chef or restaurant.

Plus, everyone gets their own custom pizza. ICE LA loves pizza day.

RECIPE: Chef Sim's Pro Pizza Dough

Pizza Pastry Arts Career

Pastry & Baking Arts

How to Cut Cake Like a Pro

The Right Tool for the Job

Consult a Cake-Cutting Guide

Consider Dowels and Concentric Circles

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All ŷ������Ƭ Cake Math

Formula for Calculating Baking Pan Volume

Example 1: Converting More Cake to Less Cake

Example 2: Converting Round Cakes into a Sheet Cake

Measure by Weight and Go Metric

Adjusting Bake Time

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An Introductory Guide to Vanilla

What is vanilla? Where is it grown?

What are the different types of vanilla?

Whole vanilla beans

Vanilla extract

Vanilla paste

Vanilla powder

Which type of vanilla should I use when?

How to get the most out of vanilla

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Choosing the Best Flour for Bread Baking: A Comprehensive Guide

What Differentiates Bread Flour from Other Types of Flour?

Can You Use All-Purpose Flour for Bread Baking?

Different Types of Flours for Different Types of Bread

What ŷ������Ƭ Whole Wheat Flour?

Are Alternative Flours Good For Bread Baking?

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Ghoul Log Halloween Roulade Cake

Roulade Cake

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Tips from Vegan Chefs for Grilling Meat Alternatives

Well Done Isn’t Necessarily Well Done

Take Risks with Marinades

Try Dry Rubs Also

Oil the Grates

Think Inside the (Farm Share) Box

Don’t Forget the Fruit

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Chef Penny's Pistachio and Jelly Doughnuts

Chef Penny's Sicilian Pistachio and Calamansi Jelly Doughnuts

Brioche

Ingredients

Directions

Sicilian Pistachio Pastry Cream

Ingredients

Directions

Caramelized Pistachio

Ingredients

Directions

Calamansi Jelly

Ingredients

Directions

Calamansi Caramel Glaze

To Assemble

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How to Approach a Composed Cheese Course

Add new comment

Buttery, Flaky, Irresistible: Viennoiserie

Add new comment

Everyone Loves Pizza Day at ICE

Add new comment

All ŷ��Ƭ Cake Math

What ŷ��Ƭ Whole Wheat Flour?